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fashion
Here’s Everything We Did at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24
17/08/23
Author: Lucianne Tonti
DOCUMENTED BY: @luciannetonti
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Copenhagen is considered to be one of the most sustainable cities in the world, so it's no surprise that its fashion scene is just as pioneering when it comes to being climate conscious.
In 2020, Copenhagen Fashion Week set a new standard by becoming the first fashion week to implement a sustainability criteria for participating designers. Today, at least half of each collection that shows must use certified natural fibres, new generation sustainable materials, or upcycled, recycled and deadstock fabrics. Below, our wrap-up of the week that was.
Day One
Tekla Breakfast
Documented By: @luciannetonti
Day One
Tekla Breakfast
Set against a backdrop of torrential rain and sideways wind (as good a reminder as any about the current state of the changing climate), the week kicked off with a Tekla breakfast. The Danish design studio has garnered a legion of international fans for its organic cotton bedding, sleepwear, towelling and soft furnishings. Held in the new Tekla flagship, the space was light, airy and decorated with second hand furniture. Guests enjoyed cardamom buns from Juno bakery, fresh plums, apple juice and coffee.
Rolf Ekroth Show
RIISE then attended the week’s first runway show, that of Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth. Ingeniously staged at an indoor skatepark, the designer’s debut runway collection offered new interpretations of streetwear silhouettes: think floor length anoraks and patchwork blankets made from uypcycled fabric swatches. Genderless and cool, the collection relied on 80% deadstock or recycled materials, with all garments made in Finland and the Baltic region.
Vogue Business Talk
We rounded out day one by attending a talk presented by Vogue Business titled Methods and Materials. We learned that Swedish textile-to-textile recycling company Renewcell have developed a new type of viscose made from cotton waste. A representative from Levi’s said that they’ve begun using it in their jeans and that it feels exactly the same as the denim we all know and love. Promising stuff.
Day Two
OpéraSPORT Show
Documented By: @luciannetonti
Day Two
OpéraSPORT Show
The heavy rain didn’t stop the street style set from turning out. Our first show of the day was by OpéraSPORT, a label launched by Parisian stylist Stephanie Gundelach and Copenhagen retail consultant Awa Malina Stelter. Taking inspiration from the natural world, the show was fittingly held outdoors. The delicate lace looks at the end, inspired by traditional Spanish dress, were a real highlight. RIISE has already placed an order and we’re very excited to stock this beautiful brand early next year.
Marimekko at Designmuseum Danmark
Next, we were off to the Designmuseum Danmark for Marimekko. The globally-beloved Finnish brand was celebrating the 60th anniversary of its iconic red flower print – you know the one. Reflecting the brand’s inclusive ethos, the runway show was open to the public and it was, unsurprisingly, packed. We loved the rotating flowers on the runway.
Wood Wood SolidAir Show
We finished day two with Wood Wood’s show. Called ‘SolidAir’, the brand described this collection as "a moment of reflection and catharsis.” The subdued grey palette was punctuated with bolts of tangerine and baby blue. Models walked down the cool concrete runway of a white office building carpark.
Day Three
Helmstedt Show
Documented By: @luciannetonti
Day Three
Helmstedt Show
Day three kicked off with the Helmstedt show. Created by designer Emilie Helmstedt, who has been named on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 art and culture list, this show was eagerly anticipated. There was a clear cloud theme going on, with clouds printed onto garments and also hanging from the ceiling. Bright colours and beaded bralettes were joyously sent out down the runway.
OpéraSPORT Pop-Up Shop
We stopped by the OpéraSPORT pop-up shop, held in collaboration with British artist Tom Anholt, before attending the most hyped show of the week: Ganni. Arguably one of Copenhagen’s most successful international exports of recent times, Ganni is known for its playful aesthetic and oversized silhouettes. And their SS24 collection did not disappoint. Our show of the week, AI trees on the runway were fitted with speakers so that guests could ask questions about climate change. The soundtrack was on point, and model Paloma Elsesser opened the show in a look from her collaboration with the Danish design darlings.
The after party, held in cahoots with New Balance, took place at the Instagram-famous Apollo Bar. Tablecloths were decorated by New Yorker cartoonist Suerynn Lee, there was a tattoo station and even a hidden karaoke room. Super fun.Day Four
Circulose Showroom
Documented By: @luciannetonti
Day Four
Circulose Showroom
We finished the week with a breakfast at the Circulose showroom to support emerging Nordic design talent. Circuolose is a new material made from upcycled cotton, so the upcoming brands all had sustainability woven into their DNA. We then headed to the Role of the Emerging Designer Talk before concluding our time in Copenhagen with a little sightseeing which included vintage shopping and catching a ferry to the all-organic Lille Bakery, proving that yes, we will do anything for the perfect loaf of bread.
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Documented By: @luciannetonti
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